Antiquing Gel

UPDATED 01/02/07

Ok you have probably noticed that I have mentioned using antiquing gel in a few of my write-ups on my kits. I thought it was high time that I actually explained it better. With some pictures so you get a better idea what I'm talking about.
First of all, as you can see in the picture, the stuff is made by Delta. You can find it in almost any craft store for like $1-2 a bottle.
I will use my black and brown gels. There is also a clear gel that you can tint with other paint to get the colors you want. I'm still trying to get just the right blend of pigment and gel though. Think the problem is the small quantities of what I am using at any given time. I will use and old extra base I have laying around. This one is white to really show off the effect.
Here is what it looks like when it is still wet.
Try to ignore the brush marks. This was just a real quick job on unprimed plastic, so I didn't work it around a lot to eliminate them.
Here is the completely dried version.
As you can see, it kinda darkens and flattens out after it dries.
Now you can see how this stuff actually works. It's almost like a cross between a wash and a glaze. You get highlighting of the creases and such, while it tones without obliterating the rest of the area.
Now you can see why I love this for bases. After detailing grass and rocks, and other small things on the base. Give it a coat of the brown (if you are going for dirt) and it highlights the grooves, and helps mellow and blend all the other details. This really pulls things together and keeps any one thing from standing out on the base and taking away from the actual kit by looking too jarring
You can thin it with water, and you get an even lighter coat.
Like I said, you can also tint it with other acrylic paint. I have darkened up the brown by mixing in some of the black. That really gets things to pop!

I have also used the clear version for an overcoat. Example : on my MOM Frankenstein, I painted the base coat, added vein, artery, and bruise details to that. Then I mixed a little of the base color with some gel, thinned it down, then went over those details. Really helped to set the tones 'under the skin'. Made it much more realistic.
I know you can do the same with an airbrush and spraying a very thin coat, but since I don't have an airbrush, this lets me do something similar to achieve that effect.

Should also mention, you should plan on letting it dry at least overnight. It takes about that long to be dry to the touch.
I usually try to give it around a week before I seal the model. Think that is what caused a problem with white spots on another kit. Didn't let it dry thoroughly before I sealed.

 

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