Spray Paint Shelf

Where I Keep and Work on My Kits
UPDATED 12/29/19
Spray Paint Shelf Here is how I made this shelf First let me apologize. I didn't keep track of the dimensions, or even the sketches I made while desigining this. So, you aren't going to see a true step-by-step or get a materials list. But I will do what I can from memory. And this should give you a good idea of the process, and let you design something that will fit your specific work space. That is what I did. I looked around online for ideas. Didn't find anything 'off the shelf' that would fit my needs so checked some DIY sites. Found a similar shelf somewhere, but they did the slant shelves floor to ceiling. I needed more bulk storage on the bottom. So I addapted their idea to my needs and sized to fit my workspace and needs.
Step one, cut the wood and prime.	The bulk of this project is made out of regular 1 x 6 boards. I cut 8 pieces for horizontal pieces I think they were 44 inches and 2 verticle boards at around 7 feet. Then I primed the face, sides, and ends. I could have primed the other side too, but didn't bother as they won't be seen, and I don't think it will really effect the wood.
paint	Obviously the next step was to paint. Much easier to do it now, rather than when it is all assembled.
layout	Next up was laying out the shelves and pre-drilling the holes. I set both boards on my workbench with the paint side up then marked it out. If I remember correctly it is something like 7 or 8 inches between shelves. The first shelf is a little taller, as I wanted somewhere for tall cans, and didn't know if the ceiling would get in the way of pulling them out. So, I marked for the top piece, then down 9 marked top and bottom for that board then down 7 more inches, and marked top and bottom. Did that for all 7 shelves. Then I marked from the bottom up for the base section. Measured up 3" to allow for the overhang onto the base to attach it. Then 3/4" for the shelf, then 12" then 3/4" then 12". I just used 45 degrees for my angle. I could have gotten fancier but saw no need. Marked where all the boards would go, then pre-drilled the holes for the screws. Didn't want to risk splitting the wood.
assembly	Now for the fun part. Assembling it. Was kind of tricky all by myself, another set of hands would have made it immensely easier. Started with the 3 pieces of treated 2 x 4 for the base. (gonna be sitting on concrete so it needs to be treated) Could have used another one in the back, but I am cheap and only wanted to buy one 8' board Then attached the verticle pieces, being careful to keep them sqyare to the base. Then I layed it on it's side and put the top board on followed by the 7 shelves being carefull to keep them aligned to the layout lines I had put on them. Painted side in for the verticles and top piece, paint side out for the shelves.
base section	Next I put a piece of the back on. This is both to hold the cans in, and to square up the shelf. I clamped it to one verticle piece, screwed it in place, then used a framing square to make sure the shelf was true before attaching it to the top, and other side. I was just going to use plywood, but I had pieces of this tileboard left over from the laundry room renovation. A piece of 3/4" plywood on the base for the bottom shelf. Then another piece of 3/4" plywood for the side piece Which is attached to the base, then tied together with the verticle piece with 1x3 furring strips. These serve a dual purpose of tying the sides together, and providing support for the shelf. (you may have noticed the odd colors of things. I had a bunch of scrap plywood laying around from gutting the kitchen in this house. Since it was all getting painted anyway, no reason not to use the scraps up)
more base section.	Here I have the other side piece in place and am putting the 2nd shelf in. The plywood is set on the furring strips then screwed in. Then I clamped the 1x2 furring strip across the front of the plywood and screwed the plywood to it. Then ran screws into it from the side to hold it in place. Repeated on the back side of the shelf. Next I puttied the screw holes and sanded after it was dry.
complete the bottom	Basically the same step for the top of the base. Only difference, is the top sits on top of the side pieces (and the furring strips) Putty and sand.
prime	Prime
paint and finish	Paint Then add the last back piece. Not shown are the 2 furring strips I added to the back for extra support on the tileboard. Didn't want the thin material bowing from the weight of the spray cans pressing against it. So I ran furring strips from top to bottom.
	Overall, the project isn't hard. Can be done with just a handfull of tools. Circular saw, drill, tape measure, level, square. screws, paint, primer, and paint brush/roller 1 - 2x4 treated 6 - 1x6 2 - 1x2 furring strips 1 - 1x3 furring strip (2 more optional for back support) 1 sheet 3/4" plywood for base 1 sheet of something for the back If you worked at it steady you could probably get it done in a weekend. It took me weeks because I just did a little here, a little there after work when I wasn't too tired, and on weekends when I wasn't too busy.
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