above pictures are of the revised model kit. I made a few
changes to it when I decided to enter it at Wonderfest.
First I puttied and textured the bottom of the feet. I
used some Magic Sculp with some balled up stretch wrap to
add the texture to it. You can kind of see it in the
second and third pictures down on the left.
Then I mixed up some more off white and painted the
hornes on his head. Then I ran into problems. I went a
little heavy on the clear coat when I was sealing it. It
started to film up. Like a fool, I tried to wipe it away
before it set. Well, seems the sealer kind of ate through
several previous layers of paint, when I wiped it, it
took everything down to the base coat. So then I had to
try and match the color I mixed up before for the raised
areas on the back. Glad I documented it pretty good on
this page, because I couldn't remember what I used on it.
When I originally decided to enter this at WF, I figured
I would just have to do the bottom of the feet and the
horns I had forgotten to do earlier. As with all great
plans, it was somewhat flawed. For some reason the base
had a whitish film on it. Not sure what caused it, but I
ended up re-doing it. Not completely, just went over it
with a blackend varnish (varnish with black enamel mixed
in it). Kind of a glossy black wash / glaze. Of course,
since I did the base, I had to do the dino as well, so it
would seem more "at home" on the base. Actually
gave me a nice effect on the spikes down his side. Helped
blend things together even more.
I'm going to leave the old pictures up here along with
the new ones. That way, anyone who is interested can
|Now I really wish I had a better camera. With
the camera I am using now, I can't get any good shots of
all the sweet detail on this kit.
I spent a lot of time doing the
seams on this model. The fit was so good, and it looked
so sharp, I wanted to make sure I did an A1 job on it. I
used my usual approach of putting on a little extra glue
and letting it squish out to help fill the seams. Then I
scraped off the extra, primered, then puttied. After I
finally thought the seams were gone, then I would run it
by quality control. In other words, my 11 year old
daughter. She has a good eye for detail and loves to
point out my mistakes. So, when I thought things looked
good, I'd have her check them out and point out places I
missed. When I would see a disappointed look, I knew I
had it nailed.
After the seams were done, then I re-added the detail
using my Dremel engraver. I used it to re-define the
scales around the seam area that had gotten smoothed out
with the sanding. The hardest part was actually all the
spikes. Cleaning up the parting lines was a real bear.
Especially on the tail.
I actually had fun
painting this kit. Which is unusual for me. I mixed up a
purplish-brown for the top shell, and a darker brown for
the lower body and legs. Then I mixed up some brown and
blue for the parts that stick up on the shell. The head
uses the same dark brown as the lower body, but has some
of the scales around the top edge are even darker. Gives
more interesting look to it.
The spikes are a blend of yellow/brown/white. It doesn't
show up in the picks, but each spike starts out lighter
at the point and gets darker the closer you get to the
body. Wish I would have had an airbrush to do them, I
think it would have come out even better. I think I might
go back and use this same idea on the spikes on his head
as well. When I was painting it, it didn't occur to me
that they were actually spikes. They seemed more like
protrusions out of his head, but while taking the
pictures, it hit me.
I found some very interesting stuff to use for my washes
on this model. Most of the painting was done using
acrylics (I am slowly being converted to the dark side
here. I still use my enamels, but not as much as I used
to.) I was looking for some more paints one day, and
happened to find this stuff called "color
float". Basically mix a couple of drops of a color
in with some of it, and the color actually floats in it.
Works great for the washes. You can spread the mix around
and work the color down into the grooves without
discoloring the rest of the surface as much as the other
washes I have used. I also used this with a little bit of
clear for a few spots as well. For example, the toe
nails. They are done in a kind of clear gray. It colors
pretty good, but still lets a little bit of the base
color show under it. It adds depth, as well as making the
color look a little more natural to the rest of the kit.
For the base, I used
another new item I found.
First, I used some 2 part epoxy to put the 2 halves
together, and recarved the detail at the seam. Then I
used brown primer to cover it. Then went over it with a
dark brown/black mix.
After that, I used my green enamel for the leaves and
grass. (no particular reason for the enamel, other than
the fact that it was the shade I wanted). Then I mixed
some yellow ochre and brown for the stem and stump, with
a little blush at the point where it broke apart. Then I
blended a few shades of green to go over the grass. The
leaves were finished with a little yellow/color float to
get the color down into the veins of the leaves.
For the crater, I painted the inside black, and used red
and yellow in the color float. I didn't really mix it
together, so I got some red, orange, and yellow all
showing a little inside the crater to make it look a
little like lava.
Now for the fun. I used an item called "antiquing
gel". It's kind of like a wash, except thicker and
covers more. I tried using some of the black for the wash
on the shell of the dino, but didn't like the results. It
came out way to dark, because it darkened everything, not
just the recesses. I thought I would give the brown a try
on the base. I loved it. It's a lighter and brighter
brown than the base. When I started going over it, the
change was dramatic. It lightened things up, but still
gave a nice feeling of depth. It really brought the whole
thing together. I finished the base with a little bit of
a black wash using the color float again. Just enough to
help define the detail, without being overpowering.
A word of advice.
ALWAYS SEAL BETWEEN PAINT APPLICATIONS !!!
It's a good thing I followed that golden rule. When I
tried the antiquing gel for the black wash on the back. I
really didn't like the way it turned out. So I just went
over to the sink and washed it off. Never had to worry
about hurting the work I had already done before that.
I use a big can of Krylon clear matte. It's not really
flat, more of a semi-gloss than a satin. Then I do a
final coat of dulcote. One thing to keep in mind, the
shine of the clear matte may hide a little detail that
the final flat finish will bring back. An example on this
project is the different scale colors on the face. After
I painted it, it look perfect. The next day when I sealed
the paint, it all seemed to blend together and be
indicernible. When I finished the kit and hit it with the
flat, I could again see the markings that I thought I had
A few more words about the "color float" and
the "antiquing gel". Both that I found are made
by Delta Ceramcoat. Usually found in the craft
departments. They both have extremely long working times.
I think the bottles say over an hour. So I let the kit
dry over night before sealing.